How To Remove The Spent Grain Out From The Lauter Tun

In order to transport the waste grain out more easily, we will design the plough blade on the grain harrow. The plow blade can be raised and lowered freely. It should also be equipped with a stainless steel stopper to help the plow blade work smoothly. To give you a better understanding, we would like to describe the process in detail.

After the wort is washed, the waste grain is left on the false bottom. Please lift the blowing knife to the top first, then turn the rake and the blowing knife starts to move the waste grain from the top to the bottom. If you put the blowing knife on the bottom during the initial removal stage, you will most likely find that the rake cannot be turned at all because the grain bed is too tight after a long period of drainage. Therefore, remember to raise the plow blade before removing it. If you have already done so, the harrow still cannot turn. At this point, you need to manually loosen the harrow from the grain bed. Then turn the harrow and use the plow blade to remove the spent grain.

Swirling hops and hop racks

Just a decade ago, hop racks and swirl hops were largely ignored in home brewing, even by most professional brewers. It was thought that only boiling hops gave beer a pronounced bitterness. People added hops 5, 10, 15, 20 or 30 minutes before the end of the boil to add flavor and aroma to the beer, rather than at flameout, and this brief “flavor” addition became hugely popular.

Until recently, we learned that short-boil “flavor” additions were largely a myth. While these flavor additions do add additional bitterness as the alpha acids are isomerized in the boil, they are arguably inefficient because longer boil times yield higher utilization (more IBUs) and use fewer hops. To make matters worse, the addition of these flavorings quickly boils off most of the key aromatic oils. Nutmeg is cut in half in less than 10 minutes during the boil. The same is true for linalool. Others such as geraniol, geraniene and caraway last slightly longer, but are still cut in half in less than 15 minutes of boiling. Boiling hops is simply not an effective way to preserve the ideal hop oil.

To preserve the aromatic oils in hops, you need to use dry hops or add them after the boil is off. As a result, hop racks or whirlpool hops (adding hops after flameout while the wort is hot) have become a popular technique (along with traditional dry hopping) over the past 10 years. These hops have also proven to still add some bitterness, albeit at a much lower utilization rate than when boiling.
Two ways to vent steam from the brewhouse

One question many of our customers may have is: How do you manage steam condensation during wort boiling?

Basically, our steam condensers have cold water jets inside to “condense” the steam. The condensed steam then flows to the drain, or sometimes through a heat exchanger to recover heat energy. This is mainly for customers who cannot discharge steam directly, perhaps due to government restrictions or their neighbors, etc.

There is also a traditional way to discharge steam directly, but it requires the customer to prepare steam piping from the local market depending on the final installation. We will provide a steam outlet at the top of the brew kettle.
The steam outlet has a water channel inside to prevent water/steam from returning to the kettle.