Fermentation is the process by which yeast converts the sugars in the wort into alcohol and carbon dioxide gas (CARBON dioxide) to provide the alcohol content and carbonation of the beer.
The fermentation process begins when the cooled wort is moved to the fermentation vessel with the yeast.
How long does it take to ferment beer?
Many new manufacturers are questioning the optimal length of time for fermenting beer.
In fact, we have no control over the fermentation time at all.
When we cast the yeast, they do all the work!
However, we can modify specific problems to extend or reduce this duration, such as managing fermentation temperature levels.
This of course depends on the yeast pressure you are using and what you are trying to find in the beer.
Manage fermentation temperature levels.
Temperature level control is a super important component of fermentation and also makes it easy to make one of the few most important adjustments in fermentation – the highest quality and fermentation time in the completed project.
Each yeast stress has an array of temperature levels at which it works best.
Different temperature levels within the variety affect the fermentability of various yeasts.
In general, the lower the temperature, the slower the yeast works, and the higher the temperature, the faster the yeast works.
The basic rule is that the higher the fermentation temperature — especially beyond a certain temperature level for yeast — the more likely you are to acquire undesirable flavor characteristics in beer.
If cooler temperature levels are used – especially above the temperature levels specified for yeast varieties – in some cases you can experience delays, extended duration or difficulties in reaching normal fermentation levels.
Yeast pressure such as Kveik is the exception, with the exception of special designs such as wheat beers and Saisons.
Standard general rules for fermentation temperature grades
Choose medium and low temperature yeast fermentation varieties.
If the variety is 18-22℃, then 19-20℃ is best.
As mentioned above, this guide may vary for designs such as wheat beer and Saisons.
These usually require more complex fermentation treatments.
The current global brewing boom is Kveik.
This “excellent yeast” can quickly ferment beer at temperatures in excess of 30 degrees Celsius without absorbing any of the common odors, making it an excellent yeast to brew in a warm environment!
How do I know when my beer has started to ferment?
A common mistake new manufacturers make is to evaluate developments using airlocks on fermentor tanks.
An airlock is a special device that ensures that nothing gets into the fermented beer, as well as allowing the build-up of carbon dioxide to escape.
While many of us are fascinated by the “gooey” sound of the airlock every few seconds, it all tells us that carbon dioxide is being released from the fermenter.
If the ferment tank is not sealed properly, the carbon dioxide is expelled and the airlock stops bubbling.
At the end of the day, there’s only one way to tell if your beer has really finished fermenting — with a hydrometer or refractometer.
These tools enable you to check the sugar content of wort/beer.
When your beer is finished and all the setup of product packaging is to have a safe detail gravity (SG) analysis in 2-3 days, basic recommendation identification.
This is to ensure that fermentation has been completed without question.
What do I do when my beer is finished fermenting?
It is recommended to allow the beer to remain for a few days after fermenting.
This of course causes the beer to dissolve and clarify with the yeast flocculating at the end of the fermenter.
We certainly recommend this method as it can help remove the beer if you can lower the temperature.
When fermenting completely, you can choose to pack right away, want to age the brew longer, or include other things such as fruit, oak or some beer of your own.
It all depends on the beer you actually brew.
It’s long the idea that you should ‘rack’ the beer’s key fermentation right into a second fermenter to get its yeast cake, and also allow it to better the problem for product packaging.
A second fermentation is usually recommended when the second fermentation actually occurs.
What should my beer look like when it ferments?
It’s a bit like Schrodinger’s pet cat…
You can turn on the leads or you can look inside the fermenter to see what’s going on, but that can change the results, in many cases for the worse.
If you don’t need to open the fermenter or expose the beer to air to see the fermentation process, clear/transparent fermenters are a good choice.
However, what the beer looks like during the entire fermentation process depends on our friends, yeast.
Here’s what they’re doing when they’re thrown into the wort:
Lag phase (0-15 hours) | just like that?
At this stage, the yeast cells start to wake up and try to recognize what’s going on.
When they wake up and are ready to start their day, they look for their morning energy sources, such as oxygen, minerals and amino acids.
And when they do, they become aware of all the food around them.
We can imagine them assuming, “How am I most likely to eat all of this by myself?”
Throughout this phase, there is no airlock task and only a percentage of all-natural convection of wort in the fermentator as a result of stratification at any type of continuous temperature level.
Developmental stage (4 hours to four days) | close friends and feeding
“Well, I need some company for this food!”
The yeast begins to pick up and multiply the sugar in the wort.
Clausen’s yeast — a frothy yeast made of healthy proteins and sugars — begins to swell and produce.
Huge amounts of carbon dioxide are being produced and the airlocks are failing.
In addition, since the yeast produces alcohol to generate warmth, the heat convection in the wort begins to intensify, and you also start to get a mild rolling wort in the fermentor.
Most of the alcohol, aroma and taste substances are produced today.
Stationary phase (3 to 10 days) | allows to sort out the mess
All monosaccharides have actually been consumed, and Krausen begins to change from a sweet white to yellow (from precipitated malt and jumping elements), and brown (from oxidized jumping materials).
Yeast begins to absorb most of what we think of as non-flavor substances, such as stronger alcohol, diacetyl, sulfur, and esters, and convert them into more alcohol and various “better” esters.
Now, the fermented wort is being called an “environmentally friendly” beer, and it doesn’t actually have the right balance of flavors.
The airlock and convection begin to slow down as the yeast clears into the long term and also goes to rest, leaving the remedial little to continue as food away.
Death phase (weeks) My work is done
Airlock missions may exit (or have periodic bubbles) and convection exit.
The yeast is now mainly dormant, and it remains at the lowest point of the fermenter.
The beer is beginning to clear and the taste of the beer is beginning to mature.
Want to know what to do with beer once it’s finished fermenting?
Check out our blog to find out how to bottle or tap beer.
If you’re new to brewing and looking to improve your expertise, check out the rest of our brewing reviews.
If you have any kind of inquiry, please leave a comment below or give us a call by email.
We’re happy to help!
The basic guiding principle is that the higher the fermentation temperature — especially outside the specific temperature range of yeast — the more likely you are to acquire undesirable flavors and odors in the beer.
Yeast stress like Kveik is an exception, as are special designs like wheat beer and Saisons.
If you can keep the temperature down to a minimum, we would definitely recommend this as it will help you get rid of the beer.
It is the long-term idea that you have to “rack” the beer’s key fermentation right into the second fermenter to get its yeast cake, as well as allow it to better the problem of packaging for the product.
The beer is beginning to clear and the taste of the beer is beginning to mature.